Hawaii underwater.

Hawaii underwater

From snorkeling to scuba, here’s how to get started, where

to go, and whom you might meet

Palm-lined beaches, balmy nights, and flowing volcanoes are

characteristic images of Hawaii. But now increasing numbers of visitors

are discovering another of the islands’ natural wonders–the

color-spangled undersea realm, with its vivid and endlessly intriguing

residents. Underwater tourism is booming. With 70 dive stores and more

than a hundred snorkel and dive boats in operation, and with countless

beaches and coves to explore, visitors have more ways than ever to enter

Hawaii’s waters. Some arrive through excursions specializing in

underwater adventures. But most are ordinary travelers, adding an

unforgettable new dimension to a family vacation. These eight pages

introduce you to what’s distinctive about Hawaiian waters and

suggest ways to explore–from simple snorkeling, which a mature child

can learn in an hour, to skin and scuba diving, to the latest

development, snuba or scorkeling. We also present some of the marine

creatures you’re likely to meet and offer environmental and safety

tips. Finally, we lead you to some of the best undersea spots off

Hawaii, Maui, Oahu, and Kauai. For underwater Lanai possibilities.

Hawaii undersea: volcanic forms, tropical fish, grand pelagic voyagers

Lying between 19 [degrees] and 22 [degrees] north of the equator, at

the fringe of the warm-water coral belt, Hawaiian waters might at first

disappoint divers familiar with more grandly evolved reefs of warmer

waters. But this string of volcanic islands has its own beauty:

underwater lava tubes and arches create stark landscapes that are coated

with some 40 species of corals. Underwater caverns, when pierced by the

sun’s rays, glow like submerged cathedrals lit through quivering

glass. The biggest draw, for beginners and experts alike, is the

state’s 420 species of tropical reef fish, 25 percent of them found

nowhere but here. As your eyes grow accustomed to life in the coral

kingdoms, you’ll also begin to recognize intriguing families of

invertebrates and, along the ocean’s floor, some 1,000 shell

species. Or maybe you’ll encounter pelagic creatures–wanderers of

the open sea. More than one snorkeler has returned from a first outing

awed by a swim with a school of gentle dolphins. Mind-boggling, but also

possible, are meetings with the sea’s largest fish–a 50-foot whale

shark (relax: it eats plankton). Between December and April, you might

even hear the haunting song of a humpback whale.

Take time to listen, look, feel

Raised on Jacques Cousteau, we think we know what the ocean is like.

But to take your first look as you enter this foreign realm for yourself

can be awesome–even unsettling. Dream-like, this universe slows your

movements, magnifies what you see and hear (is that crackling noise

really the sound of shrimp? restless gravel?). It affects what you feel

(water layers now warm, now cool), even what you smell and taste.

Floating quietly over a reef, watch the transactions of life on a coral

head. You might see a moray eel pause while a tiny wrasse cleans off its

parasites; or you could watch a pair of butterflyfish swim in sync, as

though linked by strings. Bring a light (for rent at dive shops) to peek

into crevices and under ledges where skinny-legged shrimp and red

squirrelfish hide. And on night dives, meet the ocean’s late shift.

Like jack rabbits frozen by car headlights, fish are transfixed by a

beam–a boon for diving photographers.

What do you need to get started?

“People are always amazed at how simple it is,” says an

experienced Maui instructor. “If you can swim, you can

snorkel.” You can rent everything you’ll need. All dive stores

and many beach concessions offer mask-snorkel-fins packages ($5 to $15 a

day). Scuba gear (for certified divers only) runs $25 to $50. Underwater

camera rentals average $20; new disposable ones good to 12 feet cost $20

to $25. Photographs above illustrate gear developed in the last decade

to make snorkeling more comfortable and scuba diving safer. Major dive

improvements are spare regulators (so you don’t have to share your

mouthpiece in an emergency) and the buoyancy control (BC) vest. Between

February and August, Hawaii’s water temperatures range from 72

[degrees] to 80 [degrees] (average is 75 [degrees]). That’s cool

enough that scuba divers need wet suits–included in most packages.

Snorkelers may want to wear a heavy T-shirt for warmth and sun

protection. Or try one of the new lycra “skins” (with vest,

gloves, booties). Rubber-soled booties fit in fins to protect feet from

coral and sharp rocks. Beginning snorkelers and weak swimmers should

wear flotation vests or belts (provided on snorkel tours). And bring

waterproof sunblock!

Four ways to go: snorkel, skin-dive, scuba-dive, or–are you

ready?–snuba

Snorkeling. All you need are a mask (silicone is more comfortable

than rubber; find one that makes an airtight seal when you inhale), a

snorkel (pick one with a comfortable mouthpiece), and fins (not too

tight). You simply float face-down and breathe–slowly, like Darth

Vader, to pull fresh air into the snorkel, and avoid inhaling water that

might splash into it. Some resorts offer free lessons. Snorkel boats

routinely offer instruction ($25 to $35). But most people try it on

their own. Each year a few snorkelers drown because they panic when

snorkels or masks fill with water. Stay in shallow water until

you’ve mastered use of your gear.

Skin diving. A snorkeler views marine life while floating atop the

water. When you take a deep breath and kick down for a closer look at

what’s below, it’s called skin diving. (You can’t do this

while wearing an inflated vest.)

Scuba diving. The most sophisticated way to explore underwater is to

carry a tank of compressed air on your back, connected to your mouth via

a regulator. You don’t have to be a great swimmer. But breathing

compressed air introduces physiological and equipment complexities that

require training. Scuba divers must be certified by passing written and

practical tests proving competence in water. An exception is the

“introductory” or “resort” dive, for which no prior

experience is needed. You learn how to clear a mask, use a regulator,

and manage a heavy tank (with your vest properly inflated, you’re

weightless in the water–but awkward as an elephant seal on ground).

Then you try a shallow (no more than 30-foot) dive. Most resorts and

dive shops offer this for $50 to $120. To get certified for diving,

three- to five-day courses cost $175 to $500, including equipment

rental. For certified divers, the most popular Hawaii packages are

half-day boat dives (about $65 to $90, including two tanks of air). Some

focus on certain interests, such as turtles, wrecks, caverns, or

colorful fish. Ask how much attention you’ll get (beginners need

more), how deep you’ll dive, and how much experience your

guide’s had (veterans often know more about local marine life).

Snorkel-scuba. A hybrid of snorkeling and scuba diving came to the

Islands in 1988. Marketed as “snuba” or

“scorkeling,” it allows you to explore underwater with an air

source but without gear to carry. A 20-foot air line links you and a

buddy to an air tank on a raft above you. No prior experience is needed.

Supervised tours, which cost about $50 per person, are offered on all

four main islands.

Boat tours. Boats go to the sites with the calmest, clearest snorkel

or dive conditions on any given day. Most of the best diving and some of

the best snorkeling is accessible only by boat. All operators must be

insured, and Island dive experts assured us they are qualified. Still,

you may wish to ask for a reference for an operator from a dive store

near your home; or inquire at your hotel’s activity desk (but

remember that they get commissions for recommendations); or interview

several from the listings in the yellow pages (look under Boats, Divers,

Skin or Scuba Divers, Snorkeling). Boats carry 6 to 150, and range from

inflatables and Boston whalers to catamarans and large steel-hulled

party boats. Before choosing an operator, ask about the size of the

group, how long you can be in the water, what you’re likely to see,

and the student-teacher ratio. If you’re new to the sport and need

a lot of personal attention, say so. Smaller boats tend to offer more of

that, larger ones more amenities (toilets, shade).

A word to the wise and wary

Serious injuries are rare on guided outings. More at risk are novice

snorkelers unaware of local current, weather, and wave conditions.

Hawaii’s waves and currents generally carry more power than

Mainland waters. Basic rules: never snorkel or dive alone, and never

enter unfamiliar water without consulting a local dive store or

lifeguard for conditions that day. If the water is turbulent, or if you

don’t see anyone else snorkeling, don’t go in. Even if the

surface is calm, there may be rip currents you can’t see. None of

Hawaii’s marine animals is normally aggressive. But coral and lava

can cut (see a doctor at any sign of infection); eels will bite if

threatened; and the spines of sea urchins, the darts of cone shells, and

the stings of a Portuguese man-of-war are all painful. It’s best

not to handle anything you’re not familiar with. What about sharks?

In the past 10 years, some 23 shark “incidents” were

documented throughout the Hawaiian islands. In the seven fatal cases,

the victims probably drowned before sharks arrived. Most incidents

involve tiger sharks; a great white shark attack hasn’t been

confirmed here since the 1960s. What if you see a shark? Experts advise

that you just stay calm, keep your eye on it, and move gently (no

thrashing around) back to boat or shore.

Respecting and protecting marine life

The growing popularity of underwater exploration has raised new

environmental issues.

Overfishing. Concerned about signs of overfishing on many reefs, the

state is asking for more wardens to enforce fishing codes. Within the

next decade, it hopes to create more underwater preserves, places where

fishing is restricted and nothing may be taken. (Existing preserves are

marked with an asterisk on map.)

Reef damage. Local corals grow slowly; it takes a century for a reef

to recover from heavy damage. But fragile reefs are suffering damage

from many sources including the anchors of dive and snorkel boats at

popular sites (such as Molokini Crater, off Maui)–as well as from

divers and snorkelers who unwittingly step on coral heads, or break them

off as souvenirs. To curb anchor damage, dive operators, in cooperation

with state agencies, are installing mooring buoys at much-used sites.

And last year the state passed a law making it illegal to take or harm

coral.

Harassing marine life. The temptation for divers in a boat to chase a

pod of dolphins in order to swim with them is almost overwhelming, as is

the urge to touch or even ride a green sea turtle. But federal law

protects dolphins, whales, sea turtles, and monk seals from

harassment–described by Gene Nitta of the National Marine Fisheries

Services as “causing an animal to change its course or leave its

location.” Chasing, touching, or riding violates federal law.

Authorities will prosecute and fine.

Fish feeding. Many divers and snorkelers are tempted to feed the

fish–bringing a mass of them into close range. Professionals disagree

on whether or not this is harmful. No laws forbid it, and fish food is

sold at dive stores and some popular snorkeling sites. Critics note that

divers can be injured if the food bonanza attracts bigger prey, that

feeding upsets marine life’s natural behavior patterns, and that

feeding makes tame fish more vulnerable to anglers. Best source for

staying in touch with these and related Hawaii underwater issues is The

Ocean Recreation Council of Hawaii (TORCH), Box 1809, Kailua 96734.

Membership with quarterly newsletter costs $25.

The opportunities, island by island

We interviewed Hawaii marine biologists and dive operators to come up

with a list of near-shore snorkeling sites that, conditions permitting,

are safe and rewarding for beginners and intermediates. Nine of the

sites listed offer on-site gear rental or food concession. When

you’re ready to go, get a local update. Unless noted, all telephone

numbers are area code 808.

Kauai: rewarding but challenging waters

Oldest and northernmost of the populated islands, Kauai has rougher,

less predictable weather, and often murky water. Its north shore may be

one of the most Its north shore may be one of the most underrated dive

spots in the islands, with topography reminiscent of Micronesia’s.

But winter winds and huge waves make this area accessible only between

about June and October. Off the south shore, you can explore underwater

on calm days year-round. And ancient reefs create a half-dozen sites,

within brief boat trips of south-shore harbours and resorts, that are

good much of the year. Rent gear, arrange lessons, and check local

conditions at dive shops in the Koloa-Poipu area or in Kapaa. For the

very experienced, waters off Niihau, a rugged 18-mile boat ride, offer

maybe the Island’s most pristine diving–and home for the

endangered monk seal. 1. Tunnels Beach is safe mainly in summer. Green

jagged cliffs provide a dramatic setting for snorkeling near shore

(where there’s a vivid assortment of reef fish), before the bottom

drops abruptly into an underwater canyon. Beginners should hug the

shoreline; try in front of the white house. Watch out for boats.

“Scorkeling” tours run in summer ($49); 826-9069. From

Hanalei, take State 560 west 6 miles (1 mile beyond Charo’s

restaurant), then turn right on a sandy road, park, and ford a stream to

the beach. 2. Ke’e. The small beach (setting for The Thorn Birds),

with gently sloping sandy bottom, is calm, protected, excellent for

beginners–but advisable in summer only. Stay inside the protected

lagoon, and beware dangerous high surf. Rest rooms, showers. It’s

in Haena State Park, at the end of State 560. 3. Beach House Beach. This

excellent novice site offers the best snorkeling along protected

shallow, rocky spots nearest Beach House Restaurant. From Koloa, go

south 2 miles on State 530, then west (right) about 1/2 mile on the road

to Spouting Horn. “Scorkeling” tours ($49); 742-9912. 4. Poipu

Beach Park, a popular cove that’s excellent for first-timers,

adjoins resorts with equipment rentals, snorkel tours, food. Enter the

water to the right of the point jutting into the sea. Coral is reviving

here after the 1982 hurricane. You’ll see lots of tame reef fishes.

From Poipu Road, turn right on Hoowili Road to the park, which also has

a lifeguard, showers, rest rooms, picnic tables. “Scorkeling.”

See listings 1 and 3.

Boats. Dive and snorkel boat trips depart from Port Allen and

Kukuiula Harbor. From Hanalei Bay, a handful of northshore boat

excursion companies include snorkeling (beginners welcome; instruction

included) as part of 2- to 6-hour tours of the Na Pali Coast. Winter

through spring, whale-watching cruises from Nawiliwili include

snorkeling.

Oahu: a good place for beginners

Snorkeling and beginner dives usually occur along the north shore in

summer, the south shore in winter. Ten popular dive sites surround the

island; some have volcanic caverns, others artificial reefs of sunken

ships and airplanes. The island is best known for Hanauma Bay State

Underwater Park (7 on map), swimmable all year, which has been mobbed by

up to 10,000 visitors a day. Buses serve nearly every beach on Oahu; for

a schedule, call 531-1611. (Take bus 22 to Hanauma.) 5. Pupukea Beach

Park. Three Tables and Shark’s Cove, located on either side of a

fire station, are both popular summer snorkeling and scuba diving sites.

Shark’s Cove is known for its underwater landscape of lava

pinnacles and a network of caverns. Water near shore is 15 to 30 feet

deep. Rest rooms, showers. From Haleiwa, drive 6 miles northeast on

Kamehameha Highway (State 83). 6. Waikiki Marine Life Conservation

District, Hawaii’s newest underwater preserve (1988), is starting

to attract more marine life. At the Diamond Head end of Waikiki, it

extends for 1/2 mile from end of Kapahulu Avenue south to the War

Memorial Natatorium. Enter from steps near the Natatorium, or from

Queen’s Surf Beach in front of the pavilion. Waters can be choppy

and murky in summer. 7. Hanauma Bay State Underwater Park has a

palm-lined sandy beach bordering a breached crater in a circular bay

whose reefs, once overfished, now astonish visitors with the variety and

numbers of fish they support. At our press time, officials were

considering ways to modify visitor access and thus better preserve the

area. Fish feeding may be banned, or limited to authorized food (no more

bread, peas, processed cheese, chocolate cake). Rest rooms, snorkel-gear

and food concessions. The park is 9 miles east of Waikiki on State 72.

Snuba. Join Snuba of Oahu (922-7762) at Waikiki Beach, Hanauma Bay,

and elsewhere.

Boats. Popular snorkel cruise destinations inaccessible by land

include Rainbow Reef near Diamond Head, and Kaneohe Bay. Departures to

those and other sites are mainly from Koko Marina, Kewalo Basin, Keehi

Marine Center, Waianae, Haleiwa and Heeia Kea boat harbors. North Bay

Boat Club near Heeia Kea offers the only kayak and motorboat rentals to

transport yourself 2 miles over water to the reef; 239-5711.

Maui: the most boat options

Most year-round beach snorkeling is along the west coast. Maui is

Hawaii’s dive- and snorkel-boat capital, with at least 50 boats a

day heading to off-island destinations, including underwater preserves

at Molokini Crater and Lanai. A 30-minute ride from Kihei or a 1

1/2-hour trip from Lahaina, Molokini features clear water and swarms of

tame milletseed butterflyfish. Lanai has miles of the richest and best

reefs around, visited by green sea turtles. January through March,

you’re almost certain to see whales on your crossing. 8.

Honolua-Mokuleia Bay Marine Life Conservation District. Two bays offer

good summer snorkeling. Northermost is Honolua, with magnificent coral

growth, lots of butterflyfish, and other reef fishes; a 1/4-mile trail

leads from the clifftop to the water. Mokuleia (locals call it

Slaughterhouse Beach) is 1/2 mile south; a steep 200-yard trail to the

bay begins at sign. At both, the best snorkeling is along the sides of

bay. One popular snorkel tour is along the rocks and reef on the west

side of Honolua Bay, rounding the rocky point, with a rest on Mokuleia

Beach before returning. 9. Kapalua Bay is small and protected–another

good place for beginners, with a fair variety of coral, wrasses,

triggerfish, surgeonfish. Kapalua Bay Hotel has a beach shack renting

snorkel gear. 10. Black Rock at Kaanapali Beach, in front of the

Sheraton Maui Hotel, was a favorite diving spot for ancient Hawaiian

royalty, and now swarms with snorkelers and introductory and night

divers. It’s mostly lava, with some coral, and a fairly steep drop

to about 40 feet. Snorkel and dive gear rentals. Park at Whalers Village

in Kaanapali. 11. Olowalu, between mile markers 14 and 15 on State 30 (6

miles south of Lahaina), has a large reef parallel to shore. The inner

reef is shallow, the water often murky but usually gentle enough for

children. The outer reef, 50 to 100 yards from shore, has many fishes,

large coral heads, turtles. Lots of Hawaiian families come here

weekends. You can get a hot lunch (but no rentals) at Olowalu Market

(marker 15). 12. Ulua Beach is fine for snorkeling and introductory

dives. You can park in a lot at Wailea, between Stouffer Wailea Beach

Hotel and Maui Inter-Continental Wailea (shoreline access marker 107).

Enter water from the sand, and swim where the rocks are, in 3- to

20-foot water. You may see foot-long puffer fish, schools of goatfish,

reef fish, shrimp (look under ledges). Rentals; $25 reef tours daily at

10 for snorkelers; 879-9969 or 879-1558.

Snorkel. Snorkel Maui: author and marine biologist Ann Fielding leads

groups of 2 to 8 of any experience level on half-day shoreline outings

($35); 572-8437.

Snuba. From Lahaina, Captain Nemo’s (667-5555) offers beach

dives; Hawaiian Reef Divers (667-7647) has afternoon boat trips; Four

Wind Catamaran (879-8188) goes to Molokini Crater. Also, call Snuba of

Hawaii (874-1001).

Boats. About 60 percent of the boats depart from Lahaina Harbor, 30

percent from Maalaea, and a dozen, usually “sixpack”

powerboats, from Kihei. The rest depart from Kaanapali Beach resorts.

Sign up through dive stores or resort activity desks.

Hawaii: dramatic volcanic topography

Known for its rugged coastline and steep drops, the Big Island offers

dramatic diving, primarily along its 85-mile western coastline, which is

strewn with lava flows, submerged caves, coral reefs, and more than 40

regularly used diving sites. Most of this exposure is sheltered from the

trade winds by Mauna Kea and Mauna Loa volcanoes; the coast is nearly

all lava, so there’s little soil runoff to muddy visibility.

However, there’s little protection from the southerly Kona winds,

and there are few sandy beaches. The northern Kohala coast is likely to

be sunny all day, while south from Kailua-Kona, in the rain shadow of

the volcanoes, afternoons can cloud up. Either direction, beach diving

will be best in the mornings before water gets choppy. Much of the

island’s best snorkeling–including Kealakekua Bay State Underwater

Park–is accessible only by boat. Near the site where Captain James Cook

was killed in 1779, the park is filled with spectacular coral and marine

life. 13. Lapakahi State Historical Park. A restored 600-year-old

fishing village gives visitors an idea how Hawaiians once lived along

this remote shore. At the foot of the village, a rocky shoreline leads

to nearshore waters with excellent clarity and diverse marine life;

water is safer in summer. Some say its variety of corals rivals

Kealakekua Bay’s. Never venture beyond Koaie Cove; currents are

dangerous. On Highway 270, 12.1 miles north of Kawaihae. 14. Spencer

Beach Park and 15. Hapuna Beach State Recreation Area have white-sand

beaches with pleasant snorkeling by lava outcrops (south at Spencer,

north at Hapuna). Both are off State 19, 1 and 3 miles south of

Kawaihae, respectively. Both have rest rooms. Hapuna has showers,

cabins, and lawns with coconut trees; its waters are dangerous in high

surf. 16. Anaehoomalu Bay has a good beginners’ area–a large, calm

pocket of coral off a grand crescent of white-sand beach. Aerial

photographs at the Ocean Sports beach shack can help you locate best

coral heads, 1/2 mile from shore (water is still only 10 feet deep).

Rent snorkel gear, rafts, even wave skis for paddling out to better

coral. To reserve for snuba, call Ocean Sports at 885-5555. On State 19

about 25 miles north of Kailua-Kona, follow signs to the Royal

Waikoloan. Enter south of the hotel. 17. Kahaluu Beach Park, a popular

family area, has rest rooms, showers, picnic pavilions, and snorkel-gear

and snack concessions. Snuba Big Island can equip you for snuba

(326-5444). Protected by a fringing reef, fish here are numerous and

tame; turtles are seen. Beginners should stay at the south end of the

park. The outer edge of the bowl has better corals and fish, but

sometimes a dangerous rip current. Go 5 miles south of town on Alii

Drive. 18. Honaunau Bay, just north of Puuhonua o Honaunau National

Historical Park (Place of Refuge), has magnificent snorkeling when

waters aren’t surging. A spectacular underwater garden immediately

offshore from the public boat ramp is home to diverse marine life.

Different corals abound with fish in 3- to 10-foot waters. Note that the

beach in front of the park, historically a place of refuge and grounds

of a royal residence, is considered sacred; do not enter the water from

there. From Kailua-Kona, drive about 21 miles south on State 11

(Mamalohoa Highway), then right (west) on State 160 about 3 miles. The

road immediately north of the park leads to the boat-ramp access. 19.

Richardson Ocean Center, in Leleiwi Beach Park, offers the best

snorkeling near Hilo. In the bay’s northeastern corner, near an

interpretive center, many fish and other marine creatures inhabit the

shallow water. The park is 5 miles east of Hilo on Kalanianaole Street.

Snuba. See listings 16 and 17.

Boats. Many boats head to Kealakekua and elsewhere in early morning

(7 or 8) from Kailua-Kona, or 6 miles south, from Keauhou pier. Other

boats operate daily from Kohala coast resorts to the north.

“Live-aboard” boats. For a “live-aboard” diving

vacation, write or call Live Dive Hawaii, Box 2097, Kailua-Kona, Hawaii

96745; (800) 344-5662. A luxurious, 110-foot, 14-passenger cruiser

offers private baths, a hot tub, video entertainment, catered meals.

Cost is $1,595 a week. Another outfit, Sun Seeker, runs a 53-foot yacht

for up to six passengers; cost is $250 per person per night (two-night

minimum); Box 2442, Kailua-Kona 96745; 322-6774.

PHOTO : It’s four steps into ocean world off Waikiki. Boats

take snorkelers and divers to explore

PHOTO : best areas

PHOTO : In shallows, youngster masters the use of snorkel and mask

PHOTO : Visions of lemon-colored butterflyfish fill diver’s

mask. More than 20 species of this

PHOTO : fish abound in Hawaii’s waters

PHOTO : Powerful flippers propel sea turtle past scuba

PHOTO : diver off Big Island’s northwest shore (any quick

motion by diver would have spooked him);

PHOTO : touching the creature is illegal

PHOTO : Pool is scuba classroom at Maui’s Plantation Inn.

Students learn to breathe through a

PHOTO : regulator and clear any water out of both mask and

regulator

PHOTO : Snuba group gets started on sandy shore of Oahu’s

Hanauma Bay (7 on map). Inflatable rafts

PHOTO : will carry air tanks, freeing divers to swim unencumbered

PHOTO : Rent gear to suit any ambition from beach shack at

Maui’s Black Rock (10 on map). Options

PHOTO : range from rafts with viewing windows to scuba gear

PHOTO : Boat from Maui transports scuba divers to Molokini Crater,

famous for its vivid colonies

PHOTO : of butterflyfish

PHOTO : Overcrowding by sun worshipers may cause officials to

impose limits, new this spring, on

PHOTO : Oahu’s Hanauma Bay

PHOTO : In shallow water, snorkelers at Kahaluu Beach Park (17)

photograph fish

An Underwater Guide to Hawaii, by Ann Fielding and Ed Robinson

(University of Hawaii Press, 1987; $15), is a good primer to

Hawaii’s underwater life.

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